Bush beans and pole beans can be grown in all agro-ecological regions except the
up-country Wet Zone.
Soils
Well-drained soils are suitable (preferably pH 6); ill-drained soils can cause growth problems;
Land preparation
The soil should be ploughed to a depth of 30-40 cm and worked to a very fine tilth.
Recommended and promising varieties
1. Bush bean
a) Wade
Pods - dark green, round, fleshy, stringless and smooth surfaced, medium long
b) Top Crop
Pods-light green, flattened to round, stringless, medium long
2. Pole bean
a) Kentucky Wonder Green
Pods - green, oval cordate, medium size, stringy, slightly S-shaped
b) Kentucky Wonder Wax
Pods - light yellow, oval cordate, short to medium length, stringy, curved
c) Other promising varieties - Pees Butter, Katugastota, Lanka Nill
Seed rate
a) Bush bean - 75 kg/ha
b) Pole bean - 50 kg/ha
Time of planting
Planting after heavy rains is recommended for both Maha and Yala seasons.
Planting and spacing
a) Dibble seed on raised beds
b) Spacing
i. Bush bean - 50 x 10 cm
ii. Pole bean - 60 x 45 cm
After care
Stake pole beans when, support is required.
Fertilizer use
N-145 kg/ha (45 kg/ha if nodulation is satisfactory), P205-130 kg/ha, K2O-90 kg/ha
a) Basal - apply the following formulations and rates:
i. Urea - 190 kg/ha
ii. TSP- 285 kg/ha
iii. Muriate of potash -150 kg/ha
b) Top dressing - apply 125 kg/ha of urea 4 weeks after planting
Irrigation
Irrigate daily until germination is complete, then once every 2-3 days until the crop is established. Maintenance of adequate moisture during flowering and pod-¬filling stages is very important.
Weed control
1. Bush beans
a. Earth-up 1 week after planting.
b. Weed 3 weeks after planting to, coincide with fertilizer application.
2. Pole beans
a. Weed 2 and 6 weeks after planting.
b. When an-inverted trellis is used, two additional weedings are needed to control weeds between rows.
Disease control
1. Pythium rot (Pythium spp.)
a) Symptoms
i. Scorching of leaves
ii. Browning of basal stem and roots
b) Control
i. Avoid continuous cultivation of beans in the same field
ii. Facilitate good drainage
iii. Avoid excessive use of nitrogen
iv. Use recommended fungicides for seed and soil treatment
2. Collar rot (Sclerotium rolfsii)
a) Symptoms
i. Yellowing of leaves
ii. Rotting at base of stem
iii. Presence of a white mycelial mat at collar region
b) Control
i. Avoid accumulation of plant debris on the soil surface
ii. Use a recommended fungicide as a soil drench after positive identification of the organism
3. Anthracnose (Colletotrichum lindemuthianum)
a) Symptoms
i. Sunken spots on pods and leaves
ii. Discolouration of buds and die back of plant
b) Control: Use a recommended fungicide
4. Rust (Uromyces sp.)
a) Symptoms: light reddish-brown coloured small; raised blister like spots appear on leaves and pods
b) Control: Use a recommended fungicide
5. Bacterial blight (Xanthomonas phaseoli)
a) Symptoms
i. Leaves develop water-soaked spots, turn. brown, and fall
ii. Water-soaked spots appear on pods
b) Control
i. Follow a crop, rotation
ii. Use resistant varieties
iii. Remove all diseased plants at the earliest symptoms .
6. Bean mosaic virus
a) symptoms
i. Yellow and dark green mottling on leaves
ii. Plant stunting
b) control
i. Use resistant varieties
ii. Use virus-free seed
iii. Rogue infected plants
iv. Control weeds
v. Control aphid vectors with recommended insecticides
Yield
a) Bush bean: 6-10 tons/ha
b) Pole bean: 9-12 tons/ha
Post-harvest
Grade and handle pods carefully to avoid, damage and pack in well-ventilated bags if transported long distances.
Seed production
1. Bush bean
In the up-country Intermediate Zone, about 2 t/ha of seed/ha can be produced when planted at a spacing of 40 x 10 cm and a density of 256,000 plants/ha.
Common Problems
The bean mosaic diseases cause plants to turn a yellowish green and produce few or no pods. The leaves on infected plants are a mottled yellow and are usually irregularly shaped. The only satisfactory control for these diseases is to use mosaic-resistant bean varieties.Bright yellow or brown spots on the leaves or water-soaked spots on the pods are signs of bacterial bean blight. Bacterial blight is best controlled by planting disease-free seed; avoiding contact with wet bean plants; and removing all bean debris from the garden.
Questions & Answers
Q. My beans appear healthy, but not many beans have formed. Why not?A. The blossoms drop and fail to form pods during periods of hot, dry winds.
Q. Is it a good practice to plant pole beans at the base of corn plant for double cropping?
A. No. Neither crop can reach its maximum potential. Weed control becomes difficult and cornstalks offer weak support when the beans are maturing.
Q. Is it necessary to plant beans in a different area of the garden each year?
A. Yes. Beans are subject to diseases that may carry over in the soil to reinfect the following bean crop.
Q. Will bean varieties cross in my garden?
A. Because the flowers are largely self-pollinated, bean varieties usually do not cross. These crosses show up only when seed is saved from cross-pollinated flowers. In any event, you should obtain new seeds each year to avoid seedborne diseases.
Q. Can I use beans from my garden that have matured past the green, edible stage?
A. Yes. Snap beans (pole or bush) may be harvested for shellouts and for dry beans; and lima beans may be harvested for butter beans.
Q. Why do some snap bean varieties have white seeds?
A. Most bean varieties are developed for the canning and freezing industry. When varieties with colored seeds are used, the cooking water is slightly off-color. White seed is preferred because it does not discolor the cooking water.
Q. What are the fuzzy, bright yellow insects on my bean plants?
A. These are larvae of the Mexican bean beetle. The adult resembles a large ladybug. The larvae do the most damage. They are generally not a serious problem, but they occasionally reach damaging numbers, particularly early in the season.
Selection & Storage
Legume is the prosaic name for beans. It covers all the podded plants. Fresh beans (as opposed to dried) vary in color, shape and length of pod. Fresh beans include green beans, Chinese long beans, tiny green beans (Haricot) and Fava beans, to name a few. This section will focus on bush beans and pole beans which are common garden varieties.Harvest fresh beans before they become tough and stingy. If you can see the bulge of a developing bean through the green pod, the bean is over-mature and should be shelled (except pole beans). At this stage the pod is too tough to eat. Planting garden beans in two week intervals helps to eliminate having all the beans ready for harvest at the same time.
Fresh pole beans and bush beans can be stored, unwashed in plastic bags in the vegetable crisper of the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Do not wash them before storing. Wet beans will develop black spots and decay quickly. Wash beans just before preparation.
Nutritional Value & Health Benefits
Snap beans, string beans, and pole beans are the immature pod and beans of dried legumes. All of these will mature to produce fat seeds and tough inedible pods. The nutritional profile of mature dried beans is very different from that of green beans. Green beans are a good source of carbohydrates. They are a moderate source of protein, dietary fiber, Vitamin C and beta carotene. The beta carotene is converted to vitamin A in the body. Green beans also contain small amounts of calcium and other trace nutrients.Nutrition Facts (1/2 cup fresh cooked fresh green beans)
Calories 15
Dietary fiber 1.6 grams
Protein 1 gram
Carbohydrates 3.5 mg
Vitamin A 340 IU
Vitamin C 7.5 mg
Folic Acid 21 mg
Calcium 31.5 mg
Iron .4 mg
Potassium 94.5 mg
Preparation & Serving
Tiny immature green beans from any variety are delicious served raw in fresh salads. They are tender and mildly flavored. Mature green beans need to be cooked or blanched before eating. Only the stem end needs to be removed. Wash beans under cold running water and drain. Green beans retain color and nutritional value best if they are cooked whole. Cooking time should always be brief.Home Preservation
Green beans can be frozen, dried or canned. Immature beans retain more color and undergo less texture and flavor loss during freezing. All vegetables must be blanched before freezing. Unblanched vegetables quickly become tough and suffer huge nutrient and color loss. Vegetables naturally contain an active enzyme that causes deterioration of plant cells, even during freezing. Blanching before freezing retards the enzyme activity.Freezing does not improve the quality of any vegetable. Freezing actually can magnify undesirable characteristics. For instance, woodiness in stalks become more noticeable upon thawing. Select vegetables grown under favorable conditions and prepare for freezing as soon after picking as possible. Vegetables at peak quality for eating will produce best results in the freezer.
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In a blanching pot or large pot with a tight fitting lid, bring 5 quarts of water to a rolling boil.
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Meanwhile, wash beans, trim stem ends and cut into1-inch pieces or leave whole.
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Blanch no more than one pound at a time. Add beans to boiling water and immediately cover with a tight fitting lid.
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Start timing immediately and blanch for four minutes.
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Prepare an ice water bath in a large 5-quart container or the sink.
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Remove beans from water with slotted a spoon or blanching basket.
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Immerse in the ice water bath for five minutes or until cooled. If
you do not have ice, use several changes of cold water or running cold
water. Remove and drain.
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Pack cold beans in zip-closure freezer bags or freezer containers.
Squeeze out as much air as possible before sealing bags.
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Label and date each container or bag. Immediately place in the
freezer, allowing an inch of space around each container
until it is frozen. Freeze for up to one year at 0 degrees
F. or below.
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Blanching water can be used over and over again. Add more water if
necessary. Remember to always bring water back to a rolling boil before
blanching more vegetables.
Recipes
Herbs and spices that compliment green beans include dill, mint, basil, sage, thyme, summer savory, garlic, onions and dry mustard.Steamed Green Beans with Lemony Vinaigrette
Lemony Vinaigrette
- 1 tablespoon fresh parsley, minced
- 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
- 2 tablespoons fat-free yogurt
- 1 tablespoon chives or green onion with green top, finely chopped
- 1/4 teaspoon each, salt and black pepper
- 1/2 cup canola oil or safflower oil
Steamed Green Beans
- 1 pound fresh green beans, leave whole
- 1/2 cup red pepper, cut into julienne strips
Green Beans with Tomatoes
- 1-1/2 pounds fresh green beans
- 1 large ripe tomato, cored and chopped
- 1/2 cup onion, chopped
- 1 jalapeno pepper, seeded and cut into julienne strips
- 1 clove garlic
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
- 5 pods of okra (optional) or one white potato cubed
- salt and pepper to taste
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